Last Lullaby

So to the final stretch of my journey. I get myself a sturdy breakfast, pack my bags and check out. Before I go, I have a quick look around the discovery centre (The Sill) which is attached to the hostel. It's a bit too modern for my liking (certainly reflected in the prices of the gift shop!), but parts are interesting and the rooftop garden is certainly worth a look and gave me a chuckle when I came across this titbit of info (see below- I'm not sure I'd be welcomed home in such a fashion πŸ˜‚)

Also, I came across a video of the artist of the Northumbrian pipes that the fellow punter of on the bridge told me about (remember that?, border pipes guy? Back in Newcastle? Day 1? See First Cut is the Deepest page for reference- how weird is that?... No such thing as coincidences guys!!!). Anyway, she is called Kathryn Tickell and she plays the Northumbrian Smallpipes and I must say I now understand what the street piper meant when he said they sound much 'sweeter' than traditional or even border pipes...quite a distinct sound. I will put a vid and a pic of the pipes below and you can make your own mind up. Onwards! (before my obsession with bagpipes starts to rival my father's obsession with riptides!- another callback!, I'm getting good at this😊)

As I leave The Sill, I notice they are playing 'The Unthanks' as background music (they are a Northumbrian based family folk band, that orchestrate the Tar 'n Barrel festival- a 'must do' on my list and have now international acclaim). As I am already a fan of their music, and I would be passing near to the abandoned settlement of Unthanks (again folks, the universe is working for us!), I pop on my headphones and listen to some sweet folk music (on low volume obviously) to accompany my ride back down the latter half of Hadrian's Cycleway.

It is a much more windswept affair with the dark clouds looming across the hills and the pitter patter of drizzle, it's all quite melancholic, although equally as beautiful as my recent sun drenched rides, but in a very different way. Now wether it was the weather, the views, the music, my physical exhaustion or my spiritual sense of isolation (probably all of the above) ...but I began to weep. Actually, that's not truthful...I began to howl, sob, tears and snot style whimpering....to really 'go for it'😊. Fear not folks, this is not a breakdown.. been there done that...in fact because of my previous experience in this area, I now know how important moments like this are for me and to 'lean into them'. For a long time, I fooled myself into thinking I could be happy all the time, and that's how life should be ...it should not and continually trying to make it so will eventually do you in. I think often people try to quash painful feelings with drugs/alcohol and other addictions (guilty) but they just come back stronger, 'begging to be heard'. Sometimes, you just have listen...so after a good ol' cry, I move on with my journey... physically and more importantly, spiritually.

Now, after that bit of self indulgence, you may be noticing my narcissistic qualities (this will come as little surprise to anyone who actually knows me😊). So it is with great delight that I can tell you, I am at the centre of the universe!'πŸ˜‚(footnote- any physicist will tell you we all are, technically speaking) but I really am!..well sort of?.. im actually at...drum roll please.....the Centre of Britain...well maybe?- one of the strongest contenders for the title anyway- a little village called Haltwhistle. If only I could afford the time to do my washing, I could have done it at the Centre of Britain laundrette (bucket list fodder that isπŸ˜‚)- Alas, a picture will have to do.

Just before I leave, I want to draw your attention to another 'coincidence'...I might be clutching at straws with this one!😁. I was just trying to get a picture of the signpost telling you all the relative (equal) distances to the ends of Britain, when I noticed that from a certain angle the telephone wires behind it, sort of look like directional vectors that mimic the directions...quite fitting!... I wonder if the town planners did this on purpose?...maybe they have weird brains like me too!🫣...see for yourself....


Well, I made it! Full disclosure, this post is being written the morning after the night before. By the time I got to Carlisle, I just had enough time to check in to my hotel (I know...fancy!... I thought I'd treat myself for the last night😁) and I was keen to get my glad rags on and go out and celebrate. The remaining trip was non descript anyway tbh apart from to say it was cold and hard but such is life...sometimes you just gotta get ya head down and get through. I did manage a brief stop at Carlisle castle (cue end point picture!) where I had a free tour from the kindness of one of the gate staff. We had a nice chat about the origin of the word Portcullis (neither of us knew, other than to say it's probably FrenchπŸ˜‚) and more interestingly how the Roman masonrys marked each stone they used for Hadrian's wall with their own thatching marks- an early kind of branding- many of these stones have been pinched over the years and used in different structures across the north including Carlisle castle which I was shown).

So, what does one do on completing their ride...well I don't know about one....but I go for a beer (or several, I'm ashamed to say 🫣). It wasn't totally my fault your honour!... The fantastic West Walls Brewery was to blame- a small indie brewery located...well on the western wall?... The small but sheek looking taproom has 4 'decorative' tuns (the beer is actually brewed next door), communal large tables and interesting 'indie' pictures adorning the walls (A grumpy looking picture of Nick Cave, anyone?). When I arrived, the place was absolutely rammed (always a good sign for a Sunday) mainly on account of the excellent DJ (Paulo...not that one) playing indie/alt tunes to move your feet to...and after trying most of their offering...I did.... excessively!πŸ˜‚. In truth, their own beer offerings was nothing special so I won't bore you with the details but they did offer other breweries craft cans and after a couple of Vault City's finest.. and fuelled by the atmosphere and good tunes...I was...what the kids would call 'vibing'.

It was at this point that I decided to go for a wander to a nearby gig venue, I had reliably been informed had an excellent punk gig on, however, when I got there, the bloke on the door wanted to charge me £30 for a band I had not heard of...I bid him farewell and went for a mooch around the town giddily snapping selfies, left right and centre...of anything even remotely interesting..  I think I was a bit trigger happy by this point!!!πŸ˜‚

They say the best night out is one you don't remember...I disagree...but I can relate, as the remaining evening is somewhat of a mystery...I do remember starting a sing song with some fellow ale enthusiasts so it can't have been too bad and whilst I don't remember it too clearly, I distinctly remember crawling into my cosy hotel bed with the echoes of that 'Last Lullaby' still ringing in my ears.



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